I. Introduction – Setting up a Reef Tank
This article discusses Location, Planning, Purchasing, and Preparations & Initial Set-up
When starting a tank the first major decision is location. Your tank will need a stable level surface protected from drafts and direct sunlight. For "Pico" and "Nano" tanks this may be a well-built desk, dresser, or bookshelf. Larger tanks will require a purpose-built solution. In addition to somewhere for the tank to rest, access to electrical outlets is critical, specifically, GFI rated outlets should be used wherever possible. With proper precaution and use most non-GFCI outlets can be used but the risk of electrical shorts or fire increase substantially (we are putting water and electricity in the proximity of one another). Additionally, your reef tank will require routine maintenance including water changes. Proper forethought now with regard to supply and drain access may go a long way in reducing frustration as the tank matures.
Location
If possible it would be ideal to have a drain stack and water supply installed somewhere near the tank, however, choosing to put the tank on a wall shared with your kitchen or a bathroom may be enough to leave that option open if needed later but not desired right away. Whether you install drains and a water supply for your tank, have an electrician increase your breaker capacities and install GFI outlets, or, you start small and simple it is important to remember that the tank should ideally be set up and maintained in the same location for as long as possible.
A fish tank generally speaking should not be treated as standard furniture that is rearranged around a room on a whim. Fish tanks are heavy to begin with; a 40-gallon tank weighs between 55-60 pounds depending on various manufacturing standards, however, once filled with water this becomes over 455 lbs in a relatively small footprint. Even when filled a fraction of the way, the added strain of this weight on the stand while trying to move the stand will likely result in twisting or torsion of the stand that may cause failure of the stand.
Once you have selected a location, I recommend picking the largest aquarium possible for space and your budget. Larger tanks will tend to be more stable and allow more options for inhabitants as time goes on reducing frustrations later. While larger tanks will be more stable and offer more options over time, a small tank is in no means unstable or less enjoyable than a larger tank. For some people, the desire to start a large tank may simply be offset by the anxieties of the unknown or a lack of desire to spend on a new uncertain hobby.
If this is where you find yourself then a pre-packaged reef tank is a better starting point than a from scratch DIY system. Many manufacturers make all-in-one systems that include at the least the aquarium, lighting and filtration equipment. If this is the route you have chosen the majority of the information required to start your tank will be provided in the literature of your product, however, the guidelines below will generally be reflected some extent in any given "tank start-up" instruction.
Planning, Purchasing, and Preparations
Planning and purchasing a tank can take anywhere from a few minutes at your local pet store to weeks or even months depending on financing and experience. It is during this planning and purchasing phase that aquarium enthusiast will face the first and in my opinion, most persistent challenge of the entire hobby.
From many observed experiences, I can tell you that those who fail to be patient, or worse, those who believe throwing money at something will solve a problem, are going to have significantly more problems with their tank than any patient or methodically minded individual. There is an old adage "proper preparation prevents poor performance", this will become a mantra of sorts as you move forward with reef keeping.
It is in the spirit of proper planning that we should take a few minutes before anything is purchased to think of what sort of inhabitants we would want in the future. Knowing before you start your tank that you want to keep light loving Small Polyp Stony Corals, or, whether you want to keep less light thirsty coral will save you from purchasing a light that is inadequate and will require upgrading, or from purchasing a light that far and above exceeds your requirements. Lighting is a very in-depth topic and a key component to success with photosynthetic coral. Many articles exist giving a proper breakdown of lighting types, terminology, requirements and much, much more but for this article, I will simply say to select the most appropriate light for your tank and we will move forward with other start-up information.
The filtration system is underlyingly as important as lighting. Without proper water conditions, the various algae hosted within coral would not survive. Choices of filtration are more limited by industry standards than lighting. This lends itself to a much easier decision when it comes to filtration. If your tank is not drilled with holes to accommodate an overflow and sump system then a canister style filter is the best option for your tank. If your tank is marketed as "reef ready" or you have taken the time to carefully drill holes in your tank, then a sump under the system with a return pump is by and large the best option with various advantages over canister filters.
With proper consideration of tank size, location, lighting options, filtration systems, projected inhabitants and budget the last options to select are largely inconsequential from one choice to another. Electronic control devices like heaters, thermostats, and chillers or water movement devices like pumps and powerheads are largely matters of manufacturer recommendations. Generally speaking with items like heaters, powerheads, and pumps, if one will suffice multiple will be better. Two 300w Heaters on a single thermostat will each run half as much increasing lifespan and in the event of one heater failing there is always a backup. One high rate powerhead will keep all of the water in a tank moving, but several smaller powerheads spread throughout the tank will create a more natural flow structure that avoids harmful laminar action.
Initial set-up of the tank is on the horizon, however, our last step before this should be to make sure precautions have been taken to protect the nearby floors and walls from any potential splashes or stray drops as these will have a frequency of occurrence. Walls are usually finished and the top coat of paint will be sufficient to protect the underlying surface from water drops if care is taken to dry the area. Floors are significantly less forgiving and as a result, more time and effort should be taken to protect them. Large durable floor-mats designed for high traffic areas like offices and warehouses are readily available at hardware stores and online and will usually suffice to create a containment area for any stray water, assuring the underlying floor is protected from harm.
Paint any adjacent walls that may require sealing with a protective coating and allow them to dry thoroughly as many paints emit fumes while drying that are harmful to fish tanks. Lay your floor-mat in place and place the stand on top of this. Assure the stand is level front-to-back, side-to-side and across the diagonal using a large level. An unleveled tank will put uneven force across the faces of the tank and may eventually lead to seam failure. If the tank will not be put on a stand and instead a table, shelf, or desk is being used, assure this is level as well shimming as needed. If shims are required I recommend using only plastic, polycarbonate or other composite based shims, wooden shims may absorb water allowing it to wick under the stand and create mold and mildew. Set the tank in place and install all components, including any advanced components you may have selected for later use but will not be running during the initial set up and cycle.
Initial Set-Up
Assure that you have adequate space for maintenance of all components, carefully and neatly bundle and secure all cables and wires. We should not allow electrical cables to dangle freely anywhere around the tank, proper cord organization is not only a safe practice but adds a finished professional appearance to the system. Take a step back from time to time to assure that you are not creating too much clutter and that you will be able to easily remove any compartments that may require media, any component with parts that are to be lifted away should easily clear the components, otherwise when the system is filled with water this could lead to spills.
The time has finally come, with a stressed wallet, a supportive but nervous significant other or roommate and the determination developed over weeks of taking planning into fruition, fill your tank with freshly prepared clean saltwater. It is recommended that you utilize a reverse osmosis system to filter your own water and then use a quality salt mix to bring the pH and salinity to an appropriate level, however, many pet stores will supply you with either reverse osmosis or saltwater for a fee if you do not have the ability to filter your own water or mix saltwater independent of your tank.
If you are going to be utilizing a previously owned tank you should fill the tank no more than one quarter to halfway initially. Allow the tank some time to assure that the seams will all hold, if possible it should be left overnight for good measure. Fill the tank the rest of the way once you are certain that you are ready to start your tank. Fill any sumps or filter components, prime any pumps that require priming and then power on your system. As air pockets work their way through equipment you may have a few moments of turbidity and excessive bubbles in the tank but this should subside in a few minutes.
While there are no tank inhabitants, and, before we cycle the tank there is no need to run lighting. Any advanced components like Ultraviolet Sterilizers or Protein Skimmers may cause issues with cycling the tank so please leave these devices unplugged until properly cycled. If you are using live sand or rock from the start of your tank you will want to wait for the tank to be heated to the proper temperature before adding. If you are using base rock and/or biologically inactive sand you may add this while the tank is heating and the cool water will not affect anything.